Viagem pelo Rio Amazonas, Manaus – Parintins

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DSC_2533Bom, em primeiro lugar, como chegar lá? Quando você estiver em Manaus, a capital do estado do Amazonas, existem duas maneiras de se chegar a Parintins: de avião, uma viagem de uma hora, ou pelo rio Amazonas, 18 horas para chegar lá e 24 horas ou mais para voltar em um barco típico da região, um Gaiola. É só escolher.

Parintins tem um grande festival todos os anos de 28 a 30 de junho. Mais de cinquenta mil pessoas de todo o país e do estrangeiro participam da festa.  Além do Festival do Boi, Parintins é um lugar agradável para se visitar durante todo o ano.  Por outro lado, se tudo que você quer é experimentar o Rio Amazonas, você pode ir de Gaiola para Itacoatiara, que está mais próxima de Manaus e será menos cansativo para chegar.  Este passeio de barco vai ser lento e longo.

Os rios são os principais meios de transporte nesta região do Brasil. As cidades crescem e se desenvolvem às suas margens.  Claro, aventureiro, escolhi o rio e a viagem para Parintins. A idéia era ver mais da floresta tropical e talvez, com sorte, animais também. Além disto, tereia mais tempo para aprender mais sobre os “amazonenses” de outras cidades. 

porto seca

Porto de Manaus na seca, quando está cheio encosta lá no muro e chega a cobrir metade das escadas.

Nas docas, em Manaus, cargae passageiros são preparados para a viagem. Normalmente estas embarcações ficam em Manaus por 1, 2 ou até 3 dias, porque este é o lugar onde todas as pessoas das cidades menores, espalhados ao longo das vias fluviais do Amazonas e seus afluentes, vem para vender os seus artefatos, colheitas e peixes. Eles, por sua vez, compram roupas, mantimentos, sementes, gás, combustível, materiais de construção, etc. Os barcos levam em média de 170 a 300 passageiros, além de muitas toneladas de carga.

No barco, cada um traz uma rede. Há lugares para você pendurá-las e desfrutar senhorade sua viagem em relativo conforto. Confesso que não fiquei à vontade na minha primeira vez. Na viagem de Manaus a Parintins não preguei os olho. Não é tão fácil dormir em uma rede quando você não está acostumado. Mas no caminho de volta estava tão cansado, que cai no sono, pelo menos por um par de horas. Fiz um bate e volta.

Antes de tudo verifiquei que tipo de rede de as pessoas estavam usado. Então, em uma das muitas lojas perto do porto, comprei a minha, nem melhor nem pior. (Tenho a minha até hoje.) Em seguida, paguei pelo minha passagem e passei a escolher um lugar para me pendurar, pendurar a rede. Parece simples, certo? Não há muito o que escolher, mas se acontecer de você chegar atrasado, a maioria dos passageiros já estará a bordo – uma massa de pessoas que se encontra lado a lado e às vezes até em cima uns dos outros.

redes no barcoredesNa foto ao lado, vejamulher na rede vermelha. Ela está ao lado de duas outras redes, muito próximas. As pessoas na foto não são parentes; eles simplesmente se conheceram alí, naquele momento. Nós brasileiros falamos em geral a uma distância mais próxima uns dos outros do que britânicos ou americanos, por exemplo. Para nós isso não é nenhum desrespeito ou intrusão. É simplesmente nossa maneira ser. Por lá essa distância é ainda menor.

Durante a viagem, de duas a três refeições são servidas: jantar, café da manhã, almoço e, se o barco está atrasado, outra refeição antes da chegada. A qualidade dos alimentos varia de barco para barco. Na viagem para Parintins no Gaiola “Cidade de Alenquer” a comida e sua preparação foi excelente. (No caminho de volta já não tive tanta sorte.) No primeiro dia, antes do jantar, estava interessado apenas nos rios, na paisagem e coisas assim. Na primeira refeição, o jantar, comecei a aprender mais sobre as belas pessoas dos estados do Amazonas e do Pará.

As refeições são servidas em um espaço pequeno onde cabem 12/14 pessoas de cada vez. (Há barcos maiores como o do vídeo no final deste texto: o Comandante Severino Ferreira). No Cidade de Alenquer, com cerca 170 pessoas a bordo,  uma mesa no primeiro pavimento e outra – do mesmo tamanho – no segundo convés, calculei +/- 85 pessoas por mesa, certo?  E gora, todo mundo está com fome? O barco partiu com três horas de atraso, o motor na dele: po, po, po, po, pop pop…  Eu pensei comigo, isso vai ser uma bagunça… Estava errado, muito errado. Me apaixonei por essas pessoas simples, calmas, limpas e pacíficas. 

refeicao a bordoDe volta a mesa, o sinal tocou e de uma forma ordenada, sem muito controle externo, eles foram para a mesa. Há a comida foi servida em travessas médias e eles servido uns aos outros, sem pressa e de forma tão agradável. Tomei parte na segunda rodada. Um ou outro repetiu. Notei então que ninguém estava olhando ou comparando, ficando com mais  ou menos;  eles estavam à vontade. São pessoas muito simples. Não faltam boas maneiras, um coração muito bom e se relacionar muito bem uns com os outros. Gostei mesmo do que vi.

lavatoriosDurante a viagem, alguns tomaram até quatro banhos. Toalha em uma mão, o sabão e uma muda de roupa na outra, lá ai o “Zé” outra vez… E quando voltam, seja o “Zé” ou a “Chica”, gastam até 30 minutos se penteando, escovando os dentes, etc – uma volúpia forte e bonita.

A história conta que quando os europeus chegaram ao Brasil ficaram espantados com a nudez e os hábitos de banho e  aceio dos nativos.  Bom, isso ainda é verdade.  Pelo menos a coisa banho, às vezes, ambos. Eu lá me senti um porcão com meus míseros dois banhos por dia. 🙂 

A noite chegou. Logo, algumas das redes estavam vazias, enquanto outras sustentavam mais peso … Opa, o amor no barco era óbvio. Mas o que achei engraçado foi não ouvir som algum. Perto desta turma mineiro faz muito barulho. No terceiro pavimento, o nível superior do barco, onde há um bar, algumas pessoas dançavam, bebiam cerveja e conversavam. Foi bom. Famílias inteiras, crianças, idosos, todos se divertiam. Nem todo mundo a bordo estava lá, claro. Alguns desceram para dormir ou simplesmente relaxar. Mais tarde, em profundo silêncio, todos nós dormimos. Bem, a maioria de nós. Eles sabem se divertir.

águas

Encontro das águas – Solimões e Negro

A confluência dos rios.

A viagem começou em Manaus no rio Negro. Trinta minutos depois o rio Negro e o rio Solimões colidem e nasce o Rio Amazonas. O Rio Solimões é avermelhado com lama, o Rio Negro, como o nome sugere, tem águas negras, e os dois não se misturam depois do encontro das águas por muitos quilômetros. Assim, de um lado do barco que você tem água vermelha e, do outro preta – uma cena naturalmente sureal.

pordosolÉ fantástico. A Amazônia é grande – em alguns lugares o Rio tem mais de seis quilômetros de largura. Descer o rio para Parintins, ou mesmo só até Itacoatiara, é mais rápido porque você está viajando no meio do rio com a correnteza forte. No caminho de volta, os barcos viajam muito perto das margens, desenhando cada curva, então você pode adicionar de 6 a 10 horas à sua viagem. Se o capitão tentasse ir pelo meio, a corrente é tão forte, o barco praticamente não  sairia do lugar.

ligados na rede

Na rede duas vezes. 🙂

Infelizmente, da fauna, vi apenas o salto de um peixe no rio e algumas aves. O Rio Amazonas é uma estrada para barcos de todos os tamanhos que vão para acima e para baixo o tempo todo, imagina, é como uma Rod. Bandeirantes de água. De acordo com alguns dos meus companheiros de viagem, os animais só podem ser vistos nos afluentes, longe dos principais rios, por causa do movimento dos barcos.

Itacoatiara – Porto

itaquatiaraHá muitas cidades nas margens de rios, como Itacoatiara. Já foi um lugarejo, hoje Itacoatiara é um porto importante através do qual madeira e muitos produtos são exportados para a Europa, EUA, Ásia, etc. Há uma estrada entre Itacoatiara e Manaus. (Roraima exporta seus grão por lá também.) Pelo rio, você pode levar de oito a dez horas para chegar a Manaus; por estrada, vão ser apenas três.  (Dica: Você pode deixar Manaus de barco na parte da manhã, desfrutar da viagem, experimentar o rio e mais tarde voltar de táxi ou ônibus.)

Às margens dos rios lugarejos nascem todos os dias. Hoje em dia esses lugares não estão surgindo sem cuidados. A consciência ecológica cresce também. Existem programas executados pelo governo do estado do Amazonas para ajudar essas povoados a se desenvolver com mais planejamento. O desenvolvimento sustentável é o nome do jogo e é a chave para preservar a floresta e as pessoas que lá vivem. Os brasileiros do Amazonas sabem disso e estão dispostos a cumprir a tarefa – para cuidar de nossa parte da Amazônia.

No entanto, devo admitir que há muita coisa que precisa ser feita. De volta a história da viagem, o tempo todo estive preocupado com um pedaço de plástico que tinha em meu bolso. Pensei, ‘tenha cuidado com o seu lixo!” No início da manhã, estava no deck superior curtindo o ar puro, apreciando a paisagem, à vontade. Na noite anterior, tinha colocado o meu lixo no lugar certo: a lata de lixo. De repente, para minha surpresa vejo dois sacos enormes de lixo passarem pelo barco.  Será que alguém da equipe aqui jogou?! Mediatamente desci as escadas e viu a lata de lixo com sacos novos. Fiquei bravo. Tão bravo que decidi que não era um bom momento para ir falar com a tripulação. E, também, como poderia afirmar que eram do nosso barco? Não podia. Depois escrevi às autoridades portuárias. Eles responderam que ensinam e que existem regulamentos e multas, mas as pessoas são difíceis de mudar. Foi o único se não desta viagem.

vendedoras fiamA viagem que descrevi acima foi feita em 2010, agora em 2015 estive em Manaus para a FIAM, a Feira Internacional da Amazônia. Um show tanto na parte das industrias do polo de Manaus quanto da parte de agro negócios e artesanato. No pavilhão Amazônico o ar que se respira é empreendedorismo, mas as palavras de ordem são preservar e conservar. Tudo é feito com materiais certificados, extrativismo sustentável e assim por diante. as coisas estão mudando.

O rio Amazonas é tão surpreendente. Recomendo que você faça esta viagem para ver por si mesmo.

Divirta-se!

na popa do barco

rio mar

Encontro das Águas

Prof. Antonio Carlos Rix

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